Moet zeggen dat ik in een paar gevallen op een website heb gelezen, "X zijde, ook bekend als Z zijde, heeft een..." - terwijl op een andere website de twee worden als twee verschillende types beschreven! Als dat het geval is, heb ik dat in het overzicht genoteerd. Wellicht kan iemand met meer stoffenkennis dan ik de verwarring opklaren.
Types of Silk Cloth
Brocade silk is thick and woven with metallic thread to give it a rich look and feel. It is also heavy and thick, making it suitable for skirts or jackets (and pelisses ).
Charmeuse silk is the common type of silk fabric that comes to mind when someone thinks of silk. Luxurious and shiny, charmeuse silk drapes well and has a smooth texture. It is difficult to sew because it is very slippery; it is used extensively in bridal dresses and upholstery.
Chiffon silk is lightweight and airy, lending an eloquent finish to any outfit. The fabric is sheer and needs lining to make garments and clothes out of it. This type of silk is well suited for scarves and stoles (and floaty overdresses ).
China silk is a lightweight, sheer, plain-weave fabric. It's sometimes referred to as habutai, or habotai, or pongee. It is one of the less expensive and more commonly available silk fabrics. China silk can often be found as light as 5mm and as heavy as 12mm. When purchasing for clothing construction, or purchasing ready-made clothing, this fabric is not recommended for fitted garment styles because the seams will tear from the stress.
Crepe (de Chine) silk is very lightweight, has an elegant sheen, and drapes and resists wrinkles very well. The fibers used to make crepe silk are twisted in a clockwise and anticlockwise direction to give it a distinct pebble-like look. This type of silk cloth is perfect to make dresses and skirts that look polished and sophisticated with perfect fitting.
Dupioni is a pure, lustrous 100% silk with a crisp drape, a nubby texture and is totally reversible. It is made from weaving rough, 100% raw silk fibers of irregular length and thickness, often of two different colors. Silk Dupioni has a has a stiff, tafetta-like appearance and lustrous sheen, and shimmers and changes colors wonderfully as the fabric moves and reflects light. Dupioni Silk is sometimes mistakenly referred to as shantung, which is lighter in weight and has a finer weave than Dupioni.
Jacquard silk is a thick, lustrous type of silk cloth that is woven with matte and shiny threads to produce light and dark patterns. This silk fabric is dense and usually comes in flowery or paisley patterns. Jacquard is used in bedding, scarves and upholstery.
Noil silk (“also known as raw silk?”) is made from the short fibers left after combing and carding so it doesn't shine like many other silk fabrics. Noil looks similar to cotton, but and though slightly rougher than regular silk, still has a silky feel against the skin. It also drapes better than cotton and resists wrinkling. It can be machine washed on gentle and dried on low, but this will cause a faded, "weathered" look. If you prefer bright colors, dry-clean or hand wash.
(Raw silk does not have sericin removed. Sericin is a gum that protect the natural silk fiber. It has a raw, stiff look and appears dull. Raw silk is used to make drapes and upholstery).
Shantung silk was once made from hand-reeled tussah silk, but today's shantung is usually made with cultivated silk warp yarns and heavier douppioni filling yarns. Depending on the filling yarn, shantung may be lustrous or dull. It has a firm, semi-crisp hand and tends to ravel, so avoid close-fitting styles.
Tussah or Tussar silk (“also known as shantung” silk?) is less lustrous than regular silk but has its own charm. The silk worms used to make it feed on oak trees and produce a different kind of fiber that gives tussah silk its golden hue. This type of silk cloth is preferred for upholstery or in garments where wrinkles are not needed, since tussah silk is wrinkle-free.
Care of Silk
Since silk is not resistant to rough use, pollution in the air and excessive exposure to sun can fade and spoil the fabric. Water can also destroy the rich texture of silk. It is recommended that all kinds of silk cloth should be dry cleaned only. Harsh detergents or drying should not be used on casual silks.
Spot cleaning can be done on fresh stains only. To iron silk, use a low to medium setting and iron lightly. You can hang silk apparel on padded hangers and wrap them in a garment bag to preserve the life of the fabric. With extra care, silk can last for generations to come.